When we bought our open floor plan house, it already had tile in the kitchen and terrible pet-stained carpet in the living room. When we replaced the carpet with CORETEC plus “hardwood” I was determined not to have a threshold where the tile and hardwood met. Now CORETEC isn’t actually hardwood, it’s a engineered vinyl material made to look like hardwood. The core is made of some kind of foam I was told is derived from bamboo, and you can get an optional cork padding (about 1/16″ thick) as well. This was a good thickness for our needs as it is about as think as the tile in the kitchen.  The tile is the run of the mill 1/8″ thick “engineered” ceramic material. The tile had been laid on top of sheet vinyl flooring, and of course the mastic thickness made it a little higher still.

I can’t stand a bump in the middle of the room like you see in many homes where wood meets carpet or tile. I think that transition moulding is a sign of poor craftsmanship. In order to prevent this from happening when we laid the CORETEC, I had to first remove the carpet and all the tack strips. Something I learned is that when you pull out the tack strips, which were nailed to our concrete pad foundation, it leaves a crater.   In most cases these are around the edges by the wall and can be ignored, however the transition to the kitchen was more obvious.

To fix both problems (craters and height difference between CORETEC vinyl “hardwood” planks and the tile I used floor leveling compound.  For the entire area from the tile itself to about four or five feet back from the tile, I gradually feathered the thickness of the leveling compound so that the height difference between the middle of the hardwood floor and the edge by the tile was imperceptible.  When this dried, we laid the vapor barrier, then the vinyl floor tiles. Traditional wisdom says to begin laying flooring at an exterior wall. I made sure to measure the entire width of the room so I wouldn’t end up with a tiny sliver of CORETEC butting up against the tile.  In retrospect, I probably should have started laying the hardwood at the tile side instead of the wall in case there’s shifting or uneven walls.  In my case everything worked out great!

To fill the tiny gap between the tile and the vinyl planks, I wanted something that would look good and not prevent the floating CORETEC from having a little “breathing room”.  I went with a tinted and sanded silicone caulk.  Since we had recently painted our grout, color matching wasn’t hard at all.  This stuff is great because it stays flexible enough not to impede the floor, and makes a very nice transition to the tile. It was also very easy to use and clean up.

We’ve had this floor for three years now and it still makes me happy every time I look at this transition. The type of silicone grout we used does make it slightly tough to clean if it gets dirty (because silicone if grippy and the sand in it gives it texture) but it isn’t really a problem.

When we bought our current home, it was not in great shape. The previous owner had damaged a lot of things (many intentionally). One of the things on our minds had been the disgusting carpets. We couldn’t afford to do anything about them except hire a cleaner before we moved in, which didn’t help. We ended up removing the carpet from the master bedroom and sealed and painted the subfloor grey to make a nice industrial home office.

The rest of the house still hand gross carpet, full of dust and pet stains of the previous owners. Fixing this problem costed a lot, and took our whole summer.

 

We finally saved up enough to afford new flooring, but only if we did the installation ourselves. We shopped around all the local “liquidation” flooring companies and got some quotes. We even had some carpet replaced by them, but all the hardwood options were still too expensive. Jess found the material we liked the most (COREtec) for wholesale price online. Since we saved some money on the overall price, we got some extra to put in the bathrooms as well!

The stuff came in a semi truck, and I had to load like a pallet of these 50 lb boxes into the house. My first mistake was laying it in the middle of the carpet I needed to replace.   I ended up cutting all the carpet up around those boxes first, and finally moved them to the kitchen.

In the mean time I had to remove that patch of horribly scratched cherry hardwood that was in front of the front door (top left of the above pic). The area was only about 6×10 feet (60 sq feet), but it took me at least two full days to remove. They use what I like to call the Devil’s Peanutbutter to glue the wood to the concrete slab. After the first day, I had beaten on my prybars so much that they were bent. My entire body was in pain. I even broke some blades on my oscillating saw. Once the wood was removed, the silicone goo released a strong epoxy smell that permeated the house for days. I hope to god I never have to deal with that stuff again. That in itself is worth paying someone else to do, even if I can’t afford it, I’ll pay someone else to do it before I’ll do it again.

After removal of the pet stains and Devil’s Peanutbutter, We laid a vapor barrier (the green plastic) down. This is recommended as water can get trapped under the flooring and cause issues, though it differs based on where you live and what kind of foundation you have. Definitely google for more info on that from experts online. Where this material overlapped, we had to tape it with duct tape to keep it a single membrane. SOme places this caused the plastic to bunch up and for a few  months the floor was crinkly sounding in certain places until it settled.

That pic was also during the stage of permanently removing pet odors.

Typical wisdom says to start laying this flooring on an exterior wall since those are most likely to be straight.  We did, however as mentioned in our post of the kitchen tile to the hardwood floor transition, we got lucky and worked hard to get a nice end result. We might should have started on the other side of the room to make sure the tile lines up well.

Laying floor is hard work. You will need knee pads and the correct tools <LINK>

Floor installation kit: This comes with wall spacers, a metal pull bar for making the floor align length-wide, and a tapping block. Do not forgo this purchase or you will destroy the tongue and groove of your laminate at the ends of each row.

Good knee pads: I Recommend going to the store and trying on a bunch to see what feels good to you. i took a pair back because they sucked.

Hammer:

Cutting mat: So as not to mess up the floor.

Razor Knife:

Straight Edge

Bandsaw: You might want a better one, but this is what I have.

Underlayment: Again, research the particular type you need for your location and foundation type.

CORETEC Plus flooring.

 

It’s also back-breaking. Here’s me contemplating how much money I am saving versus how miserable I feel and whether it is worth it.

But the end results are totally worth it.  Though I might would pay a few thousand dollars for someone else to do it all (we had just as much and more complicated work upstairs as well.)

 

Now we did a terrible job we did on the complicated edges by the door frame and fireplace mantle. We cut the tile to match those angles, then had to use brown caulk to fill the inevitable gaps.  This is the wrong way to do it!  Instead you should use a vibrating saw to undercut the bottom of the moulding in the doorways and mantle and slide the floor underneath for a beautiful finish.

We of course cleaned it up a bit since the second pic, but just do it right the first time and there should be no problem.

Be sure to do the closets as well.

Before and after pics:

 

 

I friggin’ hate drywall. But when you like in paper mache houses like we have in the US, you have to deal with it. I can’t tell you how many crappy patches I’ve had to do in the past (when we moved into this house there were so many holes punched in doors and walls from the previous owner!)  I especially hate large holes in drywall because there never seemed to be a good way to plug them without some kind of support from inside the wall. Then I found this method on some random video and have been using it ever since.

The first step is to standardize the hole. This sounds dumb, but you have to cut a slightly bigger hole in the wall. The trick is to make your hole a simple shape with straight sides. Triangles and rectangles work well for this.

    

The next step it to get some patch material. You can get a 2” x 2” piece of drywall form any big box hardware store.  Measure the hole you cut in the wall and cut out a piece that is a couple inches bigger on each edge. ie. a 5”x 5” hole should get a patch that is 9” x 9”.

Here’s the trick! Cut the outside dimension completely through, but only score the actual hole size lines on your patch.

Then remove the edge pieces being careful not to tear off the facing paper.

   

Test fit this patch to see that it fits your square hole.

        

Remove the patch and liberally apply mud to the edges of the hole and the edges of the patch.  You will need mud on both of these!

    

Stick the patch back on the wall and flatten it out with a large putty knife.  This may take a couple of cycles of mudding, drying, sanding, and mudding again until it’s all smooth.

When you are done, paint the wall. This was in my garage so there wasn’t a big need to do it, but we had been planning to paint anyway. Painting the garage is the actual reason I needed to patch this in fact.