I became fascinated recently while browsing pinterest by examples by different weaving techniques. I began researching one method in particular called card weaving or Tablet weaving. Evidence shows it was used as far back as about 3,000 years in Europe. The fascinating part is that it is one of the earliest methods of algorithmic programming.
To do tablet or card weaving, you need to have some cards with holes in the corners. Through these holes, you pass threads of different colors. With every pass of the horizontal thread, you’ll spin the cards either forward or backward depending on what your pattern is. These designs are typically used to create belts or edging material for garments. Jess said this method was similar to making friendship bracelets. I wanted to build a ukulele strap for the ukulele Jess and I built a couple of years ago.
The first thing to do is create some cards. I used some larger-than-normal playing cards I got at the dollar store. These aren’t the best quality paper but they are glossy and slide across one another easily. Cut them to be square and I even rounded the corners with a corner punch to make sure they don’t snag on the corner when I spin them. I then used a hole punch to pinch a hole in each corner. I started with regular playing cards, but quickly realized that the larger the card is, the easier it is to use.You can see the steps below and the beginning of the cutting of the larger cards.
The next step is to have a loom. There are many different designs of looms. Some people simply tie one end of the strings to the back of a chair, and the other end to their belt which is the simplest method, however it isn’t easy to use. If you are just starting, this might make a lot of sense, but I was not successful with getting quality results this way.
Another loom design essentially uses a wooden box (box loom or rigid heddle looms) of some type that keeps about 2 feet of the threat taught, allowing you to weave easily. Here’s a version you can make out of PVC. Here is yet another PCV design. When you weave longer pieces, you can roll the threads onto spools at each end of the loom keeping the portion you are working on tight.
The loom style I chose to build was called an Inkle Loom.(Here’s a PVC inkle loom). This is a traditional loom design that allows you to wrap the threads fully around a zig-zag path and tie the ends together to make continuous loops. To build this, I used the left-over parts from our Ikea Snigler crib hack shown here. I had half of the crib wall sitting in the garage so I made a couple of cuts and screwed them together with 3” long screws (drilled pilot holes first of course).
It isn’t the most sturdy design as the dowels are mostly friction fit. A few have staples that somewhat hold them in. I can use it for this project and a few more without having to add additional support.
The next part that is required is the shuttle which holes the thread which is passed back and forth during the weaving process. I cut a piece of scrap clear acrylic on my bandsaw to look like a kite string holder and sanded the edges so they had a smooth radius. This makes sure it won’t catch other threads while weaving.
The way to read this chart is to look first at the little design on the bottom. It is 4 blocks high by 26 columns long.
Each column refers to one card or tablet. This means we will need to use 26 card (or tablets) each with 4 holes and threads through those holes. Each hole on the card should be labeled A, B, C, and D respectively and the color of each hole is listed from the bottom up in the design. i.e.
D
C
B
A
The design refers to the colors of each of the threads that are threaded through the each hole of the card. I used 2 color of size 10 crochet thread. I got a light green and a darker green color to represent the grey and black of the design. Pull the strands out to the length of the finished object plug an extra 12-18 inches or so. For example, starting at column 1, it will use 4 strands of the light green in my case so I cut long lengths of thread for that card. Looking at a more complicated column, you can see column 4 uses two light threads and two dark threads, etc.
The next step is to thread the cards or tablets. It is very important how threads enter the cards. This is listed below each column. Depending on how they should be threaded, it is referred to as either a Z or an S. If you imagine your card on edge, the threads should come from the top of the loom into the card (top to bottom in the image below) If a card is a S card, all 4 threads enter from the left and exit the card on the right side. Here is a close-up of the rightmost column. You can see how all 4 of the threads enter the card with this angle “ \” like the middle of the letter S. This page (use google translate to read it) shows in detail with better graphics how this works.
Z cards of course enter on the right side and output on the right with an angle like “ / ”.
The Z or S will allow the weave to be tight and you can actually tell the difference when looking at the end result. If you have some of the threads on one card S and some Z, then the cards won’t spin and you can’t weave so be careful when doing this. Also, make sure to keep the cards in order.
Next wrap each set of 4 threads on the loom, zig-zagging on the dowels until you can just tie the ends of the strings together to make a continuous loop. The cards should be in the clear area (not inside the zig-zags). The threads should be a little taught. Not so tight that the cards can’t spin and not too loose that there’s a lot of slack in the threads. I actually ended up using a fisherman’s knot (basically two slip knots tied together) which allowed me to adjust the tension of each set of 4 threads as needed throughout the weaving process.
Once you put all the threads on, align the cards so that the A-D sides of the cards are facing you all facing you. Next wind some thread on the shuttle. I did about 4 times the length of the other threads. You only need one thread on the shuttle.
A little weaving nomenclature: The long threads on the cards are called the Warp and the thread on the shuttle is called the Weft.
The area of space that is lofted by the cards is called the Shed. To weave, you pass the shuttle through the shed, then spin the cards to zig-zag the warp over and under the weft. Once you’ve done this that horizontal line is called the Pick. To begin, literally just leave an extra 6 inches or so of thread off the shuttle and just pass the shuttle through the shed. Once you do this you need to turn the cards. That’s where the larger portion of our design comes into play.
Start at the bottom at row 1. Once you’ve passed the shuttle through the shed, you’ll spin the the cards either forward or back based on which pick you are working. In the yellow section it will tell you which cards will move forward and which will move backwards. I chose this design for its simplicity.All the cards are moved in the same direction. More complicated designs get really crazy and hard to follow. In this case, pick 1 rotates all cards forward. Once you spin the cards, you need to beat the previous pick with the shuttle to make it tight, then pull the slack out of the weft thread before doing the next pick.
I came across this site which was this person’s first tablet weaving project as well using the same design. She linked to a dead link to where she first saw this design. I found the wayback machine’s cache of the site and it turns out they used the same colors I did! I found NorseGirl’s website which did this design and uses the same colors. so much for being original, haha.
Once I wove about 4 feet of material, I cut off the excess leaving about 1 foot on the end where the cards were. Jess braided these into a cord (which seems to be a traditional method of finishing the end). One the other end, I sewed a hem so it wouldn’t fray on that end and then sewed it to a 1.25 inch strap slider. I only needed 1 and was able to get it at the local outdoors store for less than $1.
We’re running out of space. With photos, astrophotography files, and music recordings and work and just life stuff; we are running low on hard drive space. Over the years we’ve bought a few external USB hard drives but even those aren’t manages well and being portable get moved around a lot. That’s not the safest way to handle hard drives. Unless they are SSDs, they can be damaged by moving them around and such. We needed a better solution. I prefer using GUIs to set things up but will for through the terminal if I have to… I just haven’t used my unix fileserver skills since I worked in IT and my linux is a bit rusty as well.
Googling around you’ll find a ton about setting up a NAS or RAID5 or somesuch, but that’s overkill. I’m not looking to spend any money with this, otherwise I’d just have bought yet another portable drive. I already have a bunch of hard drives full of stuff (and honestly, there are a LOT of duplicates of each file taking up tons of space from the crappy way I store my backups). I want to use those drives and be able to clean out the duplicates to gain space. The first step is to build a basic file server.
I had a linux machine (my workhorse during grad school) that wasn’t being used, and bunch of old hard drives that I wanted to use/access It was a variety of drives from old PCs (back to win XP actually, and even older). I had a few external drives that broke so I just plopped them into this machine as well. I didn’t want to format them for a RAID or anything as they were all different sizes and I had data like pics and projects and work stuff from ages ago on them I wanted to keep. The best solution for me was the JBOD (just a bunch of drives) style server. All the NAS examples looked annoying to setup and I’d easily forget what I had done to set them up so JBOD it was. I couldn’t find any single document explaining how to do all the steps I wanted so I spent a couple of weeks failing in my spare time… breaking and unbreaking my linux fileserver and documenting the working parts here for when I need to work on it again. I prefer doing things with GUI if possible, but I’ll do some things using the terminal because you just have to but I tried to keep it to a minimum.
Installing Linux:
If you don’t already have linux running on this computer, I suggest you install it. It sounds hard, but it is super easy to do actually. Just download any flavor of ubuntu you like (lubuntu, kubuntu, linux mint, cinnamon, etc.) I recommend the versions that say “LTS” as those are supported for 2 years or so. There’s a lot of options here.
Install linux without formatting hard drive or losing data:
Download Wubi. This will let you install linux without killing your windows files or messing anything up. you can always uninstall linux later if you want using this method.
Start clean on either blank hard drive or format an old drive:
Download ubuntu flavor you prefer
Format a USB flash drive that’s at least 2GB (lubutnu and xubtunu) or 4GB (all other flavors).
Use Balena Etcher to burn this ISO file to the USB drive.
Once finished, you can reboot your computer.
Enter the boot menu when you see your computer’s startup logo (before windows logo) by pressing either F10, F11, F12, or the delete key. Different manufacturers have different keys they choose for this.
Select to boot off the USB drive.
Doubleclick the icon on the desktop to install *buntu. Follow the menus or youtube videos on how to install it.
Remove the USB drive and reboot when done.
I was already running ubuntu so I just needed to put all the drives in the computer case. I could have 2 drives that were IDE on the same ribbon cable, and 4 SATA drives on the motherboard of my old linux box. Sadly, that’s all this mobo could accommodate. I see spots for 4 more SATA drive on the PCB but they aren’t populated. I filled all 6 spots with drives, making sure that all the drives were set up as slaves except the bootable one (see another post about how I set that up). I also had a TON of USB ports on this motherboard as well (literally 6 on the back, 2 on the front and I added 2 more to a breakout cable inside for a total of 10 USB ports). These can add more portable drives and other drives with some of these awesome USB to IDE/SATA drive cables I have to the server. As I loaded these drives in the bays I made a note as to their serial numbers and capacities. I wrote it on paper, but I also used a sharpie and wrote it on the chassis so I could keep track of what is what and where.
When I turned the machine on, I went into the BIOS and set up the boot order for the hard drives so that my /filesystem always boots first in order of hard drives. When booting the linux machine, hold the Delete key to enter BIOS. Then go to Advanced BIOS Features.
Next select “Hard Disk Priority”. Here’s what that looks like:
Finally, use the arrow keys to select a particular hard drive (the one you want to boot from) and then use the + key to increase its priority until it is number 1:
Once this is done, Hit F10 to save and exit BIOS. It will reboot the machine into linux as it usually did.
Accessing all the Hard Drives:
Open your ubuntu menu and search for the “disks” program. This should be part of gnome-system-tools, which is a standard program in ubuntu. If you don’t have it then open your package manager and search for it. Mark it for installation and click the “Apply” button. or open a terminal and enter the following:
sudo apt-get install gnome-system-tools
You can copy that line of text paste it into the terminal using ctrl+shift+v to paste in a terminal.
All your hard drives should be visible in the Disks app. It lays out all the gory details. Serial numbers, model numbers, etc. Click each drive in the left and note what the “mount point” is for them. I have my Filesystem (this is where I installed the linux operating system) and /home mount points on separate drives. /home is like the user folder in Windows with a folders for Desktop folder, Documents folder, etc. Separating this from the operating system installation file tree allows me to reinstall linux without breaking my user’s documents and settings and Desktop items, etc. I have another post on that and it has served me very well over the years.
For my other drives, they have mount points that start with /mnt and end in a weird code. That code is the UUID (hardware ID) for that hard drive and it isn’t very descriptive for humans. Let’s change that to something helpful. For instance I changed my 1TB drive’s mount point to /mnt/_old_1TB_MyBook
Once all the drives have normal names click the link to one of them and it’ll take you to the folder in your file browser. Go up one directory to see all the hard drives. You’ll note the old folders with the UUIDs in there as well as any old names you had mounted in the past, but they are empty. Only the mount points you named in Disks are connected to your hard drives. You can just delete the other empty old mount points. You have to be root to do so. I used the terminal and the command sudo rmdir <folder name> to delete the ones I was CERTAIN were empty old mount points.
All we’ve done here is essentially modify the /etc/fstab file which contains drive mount info. Lots of other tutorials out there can show you how to do this in the terminal if you want to know how.
Now we need to install all the other software we’ll need for the other steps of setting up the server. in your start menu, search for your package manager software. Mine is “Synaptic package manager” and install the following (make sure you check the box next to these entries, select “Mark for Installation” and when all are selected, click the “Apply” button.) Don’t be surprised if some of these are already selected, just ignore them then:
gnome-system-tools
samba
samba-common
python-glade2
system-config-samba
Or you could open a terminal and paste the following which will install them all for you automatically
Once these all install you will create your linux users who can access this machine. You need linux users to be able to create Samba users. Samba is the file server software. From your start menu button, search for the app “Users and Groups.” Add whoever needs users for the fileserver.
Now you can start fiddling with Samba, which is the actual fileserver software. Since there’s no icon to select to load this app, you need to open a terminal (hit ctrl+alt+t) type or paste:
sudo -H system-config-samba
You can copy that line of text paste it into the terminal using ctrl+shift+v to paste in a terminal.
You have to enter your password, but then a window should pop up. The very first time I did this I got the following error:
SystemError: could not open configuration file `/etc/libuser.conf': No such file or directory
ok, so the file doesn’t exist… I’ll simply make a blank file there and try again.
sudo touch /etc/libuser.conf #creates a blank file named libuser.conf in /etc folder
sudo -H system-config-samba
Success! It opened!
Now we need to figure out which folders we want to share and how they are set up in linux.
As we saw before, the internal hard drives all have mount points in the /mnt folder. So let’s create a share for that. Click the big plus sign button and make yours match mine below. Be sure to click the “Access” tab and make it open for everyone.
Do the same kind of thing for the /media folder. This is where any USB storage devices will mount to by default.
And finally, I have a TON of files on my old desktop and user folder, so I want to make the entire /home folder accessible as well. You have to be careful with this though because if you allow all users (and even guests) edit access to your home folder, they can delete stuff, and snoop to their hearts’ content. Any sensitive data should be locked so that users are required to log in and can only access their files. If for example you wanted each linux user we created earlier to access only their home folders, you’d set that up as /home/adam then you could set the access rights to only allow user “adam” to view it.
Once you’ve set this up, now you must create the Samba users. While in the same application, select Preferences –> Samba users. Here you will add a new user with the same name as each linux user. You will select each user from the “Unix user” dropdown box (this is why we had to create all the users before). You can have the same or different passwords than your linux login. Once you added everyone, close this app. The steps we just took replace the manual process of editing a configuration file for Samba. This is a plain text file stores in /etc/samba called smb.conf and this is usually what most tutorials will do, show you how to edit this file manually. I didn’t have luck with that. Also, you might see tutorials using a tool called gadmin-samba however when I used that it completely hosed up my system hardcore. I had to purge all samba stuff, delete all the files and start from scratch several times to fix the issues.
File/Folder Access Rights:
The final step here that is required is to set the access rights of each folder you want to share. This is important because unless we change these permissions, we will end up only being able to VIEW files and folders on the server but we can’t create new files, paste, move, or delete anything yet. To fix this we need to change the permissions on the folders we set up to share.
We need to open the folders as root or administrator. Depending on the file manager software you might have different ways to do this, but in mine you simple right click ANY folder and choose “open as Administrator” or “Open as root” then I can simply navigate to the filepath “/” If yours doesn’t offer this, then open a terminal and type in the name of your file manager but call it from sudo like one of the following lines:
sudo nautilus /
#or
sudo nemo /
#or
sudo caja /
Right click on the folder of interest, for example “/mnt” and view the Properties. Click the Permissions” tab and make sure that they all show the ability to “Create and delete files.”
Or you can give others the ability to look at files in your home user folder, but not create or delete like this:
sudo chmod 755 –R /home/adam
And you can block others from your folders and have them only viewable and editable by you like so:
sudo chmod 700 –R /home/adam
On the Windows machine:
Now your fileserver is set up you need to access it. Go on your windows machine and open a file browser window. Right-click on “This PC” and select “Add a Network Location” Click Next until it asks for the location. Click “Browse” and wait a minute for it to search your network. You should see your fileServer’s name pop up in the list. Click literally any folder under the fileServer and select Next.
Shorten the terribly long name it gives you (I just delete the highlighted part) and you’re done.
It’ll pull in the other accessible folders on that drive as well. Now you should be able to access and edit anything on those folders on the fileserver. To get to this again simply choose the fileserver option in the left-pane of the windows file explorer. If this doesn’t appear, then make sure your server is turned on and is on the same network as your windows machine and repeat the instruction in this section of the post.
The first time you visit something in here it might ask you for a username and password. Just enter one of the Samba username and password combos we created earlier. You can make it save these credentials and never ask you again if you’d like.
Cherry on top – Remote Shutdown of server:
If you don’t want to connect a keyboard, mouse and monitor to the screen just to shutdown the fileserver, you can do so remotely by installing and using SSH. SSH is a way to securely tunnel into the fileserver’s terminal remotely. That way you can send it the standard linux shutdown message from your windows PC when you are done with it for the day.
Open synaptic and you should select the following:
or run the following command:
sudo systemctl status ssh
This will install the needed files for SSH. Next, we need to let the firewall built into linux know you want to allow ssh. In a terminal window run the following:
sudo ufw allow ssh
Now you can go to the windows computer and use putty.
Enter your data here (keep the port as 22) and when you click “open” a black command window will pop up asking you who you want to login as. Type your linux username and hit enter and it’ll ask for a password. Now you’re commanding the terminal of the linux machine from windows. You can do literally anything the terminal can handle. You can’t do anything that requires GUIs though this way. That’s fine though because this is enough to send the reboot or shutdown signal. The shutdown takes about a minute before it actually shuts down, so don’ t think it isn’t doing anything, just give it some time.
sudo shutdown
#or
sudo reboot
Remote Desktop:
If you want a graphical environment for controlling your server, there’s 2 options. One is to simply remote Desktop into it. There are many ways to do this, but the easiest is to simply install and enable the xrdp app on the linux machine and use the built-in RDP app in windows to connect.
Open synaptic package manager and search for xrdp and xorgxrdp. Mark it for installation and click Apply.
Once this is done, go to the in the App search, look for “System Settings”
Go to Sharing and make sure Remote Login is ON.
Next, in system settings, click “Network” in the left column and then click the gear button next to your wired (or wireless) connection. This will give you your IP address. It should look similar to your router’s address. Mine’s 192.168.x.x. You’ll need this to connect in windows.
To do all this in the terminal on the linux machine (or through SSH) run the following:
This last command, ifconfig, will give you a screen showing you the local IP address of the machine. It should match closely to your router’s address. Mine is 192.168.x.x so I look for something that matches that. You’ll use this on the windows machine.
Now on the windows machine, click the start button and type “RDP” and hit enter. Type in the IP address of the linux machine.
I found an easier way. Simply right click on the fileserver in your explorer folder and select “Remote into this machine”
When you click connect, you’ll be able to login. I had a little trouble with this connecting. I tried all the selections in the dropdown menu a couple of times and on the 2nd or 3rd try it worked. Once I was logged in I got an error asking me to login to create a color device over and over. After entering my password 3 times I just canceled it and the window stopped popping up. I haven’t done this in like 15 years, but I don’t remember the experience being so crappy. I can access the desktop, but it is displaying a GNOME environment instead of the Mate environment I have installed on the linux machine. Nonetheless I can get do things graphically without issue.
Other Thoughts:
The way I’ve done it is quite insecure. I’m allowing Guests on the network access to create and destroy all the shared files which is kind of dumb… I’ll live with it though because I will only turn this fileserver on if I am immediately accessing the files on it, then immediately turning it off again. In that short time I hope I don’t get hacked…
Storing all your files in one location is not the best for preservation. You can make a personal cloud like Google Drive, Dropbox, Box, OneDrive, Apple Cloud, etc. by using the Unison program. It essentially synchronized two folders. These can be on the same computer, one on a portable USB drive, or even across the network. Anything added, modified, or deleted in one folder is automatically synched to the other in both directions.
Previously, I had some luck with using my file-brower’s “share” plugin. Nautilus, Nemo, and Caja all have their respective “share” app you can install in apt-get or synaptic eg “caja-share“. This will allow you to simply right-click on a folder and select “share settings” where you can set this up yourself. The problem with this is that this info is NOT stored in the basic /etc/samba/smb.conf configuration file. In fact, it is nowhere to be found anywhere in that folder. This is because this plugin stores this info in the following path:
/var/lib/samba/usershares
To create the Samba users and set up their SAMBA passwords (these can and maybe *should* be different than their linux user passwords)
sudo smbpasswd –a user1
sudo smbpasswd –a user2
Now enable the users
sudo smbpasswd –e user1
sudo smbpasswd –e user2
Check the status of the samba server. You should see “active” somewhere. If not, you hosed it somehow. Tips on how to fix this at the end…
sudo systemctl status smbd
Restarting samba (after every big change to users, folders, etc you should do this. Or you can reboot the machine, which is foolproof method of restarting the server the right way)
Ikea is no slob when it comes to designing great affordable furniture. We chose the Sniglar Crib when our daughter was born because it was solid wood, with no weird finishes or chemicals on it that converted to a bed for about $100. (It looks great too BTW). There’s no end to the hacks for these online, but we hadn’t seen any producing exactly what we wanted so we made our own. I mean, people convert these things into clothes drying racks, porch swings, benches, desks for both adults or children, magazine racks, a baby cage (playpen), you name it. Our hack is much simpler than these.
When our daughter outgrew the crib, we converted it to a daybed as the instructions show, however our daughter kept falling out. Lots of folks online recommended buying a wider piece of wood to replace the bottom support beam which would come up past the mattress. We didn’t like this for several reasons. Firstly, it doesn’t match the aesthetic of the crib. Secondly, we’d have to buy something extra. Thirdly, it is a solid piece of wood, which if your kid rolls over with their face toward the board could restrict breathing a bit.
Our solution was to take the extra side of the crib which the support beam replaced (when it was converted to a daybed) and cut the dowels shorter. I only found one other person who did this, but even that seemed like too much work.
My way is very simple and uses only 4 dowels (you might have to get these, or use cut up parts of a pencil).
First, mark the height you want the new 4th wall to go on the crib and measure to the bottom of the bed support. for us, we likes 11 inches high. You can see that our little helper got ahold of the pencil and tried to help us out by tracing the mark for us.
Measuring from the top edge of the piece we wanted to cut, I wrapped masking tape around each dowel at about 11 inches to prevent tear-out when I saw them. I then marked each dowel at 11 inches and cut each of them using my favorite pull saw for a fast and clean cut. There’s about 20 dowels but it took only about 10 minutes to cut them all by hand.
We then loosened the sides of the crib to give ourselves some working room by turning the bolts and prying the sides slightly apart. The top rail of the crib has two holes for 5/16” dowels on either end. To transfer the position of these holes to the edge supports of the crib, we put our new short side in place. We didn’t attach the bottoms of the dowels to the crib, we just sat them on the bed support frame. This is fine because the top of the crib has two small dowel holes to attach to the crib’s side supports. If there was only one dowel there, it could spin and move but since there are two used it locks the new side into place.
To attach this new shorter side, we made sure it was level and used the dowel centers from a dowel kit I had purchased years ago for some random project (who remembers…) to mark the position of the holes onto the edge support beams of the crib. I was careful not to drill these holes all the way through when I drilled the holes for the new dowels. The doweling kit comes with a drill stop, but I find that tape works better and is quicker to apply. This was done on each side to finish the project.
When finished, we pressed in the new dowels into the holes and turned the bolts on the base to lock all the sides in position.
I’d like to say that this solved the problem of finding my daughter on the ground when I check on her 30 minutes after putting her to bed, but as it turns out, she can no longer fall out of the bed; rather she is now crawling out and bringing her cover and pillow to sleep on the floor next to the bed. Some battles you just can’t win.
What: How to import any outlook file (OST and PST) into Gmail for free.
How: Using Mozilla Thunderbird as the only software you need to install.
Why: My work was hit with a massive ransomware attack and we lost pretty much everything (we did not pay ransom). For years we had to use Microsoft Outlook for email which I hated. Student accounts used gmail but all employees were stuck with Outlook. This meant that we had to export or archive our email every so often if we wanted to save old emails. I’m a bit of a data hoarder so I’ve always saved everything. Once the hack happened, Employees moved to gmail as well. I wanted to figure out a way to import all my emails (archived as well as the ones I could still access in outlook) in a single place so that all that data would finally be searchable in an easy way. I figured it out.
When the attack happened, it cut off my outlook app from the Exchange server, however I could still open it up to access my old emails. These were basically all the emails from Fall 2020 to Feb 2021. I hadn’t archived these yet, so I was hoping not to lose them.
The tool I’m using is Mozilla Thunderbird. This is a great email client that I used years ago before my current job and am glad to use it again to get the result I want.
Step 1: Find the emails from Outlook: I could no longer access the exchange server at work to get new emails, but I still could read my old emails in my outlook. It will pop up a login screen every minute or two, but you can ignore it, or just click “cancel” and it’ll go away. That doesn’t affect this process at all.
Outlook stores these in a file with an extension of .OST. You can see this file for yourself if you open outlook, go to file–>Account Settings–>Account Settings (again) then click the “Data Files” tab. You’ll see the filepath for your email address. Something like “C:\Users\Username\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Outlook\your.email@yourWork.com”
If you load any archived outlook files, you’ll see their paths as well. These have a .PST file extension.
Load Archived emails into Outlook You likely won’t need your password or anything to work to import old archived files into Outlook. Simply go to File–>Open Outlook Data File (.pst) and select the archived file. Once you import the emails, they might show up as “Archive” in the left column. You can rename this by right-clicking that name –> Data File Propertied and clicking the “Advanced” button and changing the name there. Once you exit these windows the new name show appear in the left column. I named mine based on the dates of the emails they contain. This name will follow the data into Thunderbird and then into Gmail so make it descriptive.
Test that the archives folders update with the correct name by clicking into that archive and making sure the emails are visible in there. Sometimes these files get corrupted. Sadly, you can’t just right-click that archive and see how many total emails it has because Outlook is stupid (for many reasons) and Outlook will only show you the number of emails in a specific folder you click, not and sub-folders. Look at the subfolders individually to make sure you have everything you need there. You’ll need to do this to each archive you plan to import.
Side note: this is one of the many reason I dislike Outlook. By default when you search emails in outlook it will only search the folder you are currently in, not any subfolders, or any archives… only the folder you are in… which is pretty useless.
Step 2: Setup Thunderbird to sync with the gmail account.
Next open Thunderbird and when you are setting up your account profile enter the correct data. For gmail, Authentication method is OAuth2 and the other details are in the link above.
This will sync your new gmails to thunderbird. Critically, though, this is the link to allow OLD emails to be imported into Gmail as well. We’ll set that up next:
Step 3: Import your Outlook account into Thunderbird Once you setup Thunderbird, click the hamburger icon at the top left of the mozilla window and select Tools–>Import. On the next window select to only import mail and finally on the next window click Select Outlook
Then give your computer a long time to do this Sync. I had about 6GB of emails which is quite a few. I don’ t recall how long it was, but I suggest doing it overnight.
Step 4: From Thunderbird to Gmail
Once everything is synched, go to the left pane of Thunderbird and simply drag the folder from your “Local Folders” into your gmail folder As shown.
This will then sync those emails with your gmail account. It might not look like it is doing anything, but trust me that it is uploading all those emails to your gmail account. You can even check by visiting your gmail account.
Every now and then Thunderbird wouldn’t move the folder with a drag and drop. To fix this I added a new subfolder to my gmail in Thunderbird by right-clicking and selecting “Add new subfolder” then named it whatever I liked. I then went down and clicked on the local folder that I had trouble copying. This loads all the individual emails in the top right pane of thunderbird. Go up there and click one of the emails and then Ctrl+a to select all. Now I can drag all the emails directly into the new gmail folder I created before on the left pane.
Step 5: Enjoy searching every email you’ve ever gotten using Gmail’s awesome search feature! Just login to your gmail account and all your new folders should appear there. You can click through them to make sure, but in general I find it much easier just to search. It is easier to remember what an email was about and search for it than trying to search dozens of individual archives and folders in outlook.
Imagine this: Instead of wasting time in traffic to and from work listening to 50% ads, why not “read” books and learn stuff? ( I despise ads with a passion and if you advertise to me , I’ll go out of my way to NOT purchase your product…)
I recently got fed up with my car’s incredibly sub-par infotainment system after 5 years. I bought my car just before they made Android Auto stock on all the models. I had played with Android Auto when I bought it, but it was pretty much useless at that time. It has improved since and Jess was tired of hearing me complain about it, so she installed it again on my phone to see if it had gotten any better. Luckily it had! I connect it up to my car’s bluetooth and things are (somewhat) working.
Of course, everyone knows about Audible.com, However if you are willing to make some sacrifices, there are several free options for audiobooks you can check out.
The most straightforward way to listen to free audiobooks is to get audiobooks from your local library. If you don’t like visiting the library, you can use Overdrive.com which allows you to get audiobooks for free from your library and listen to them on your phone or computer. Now the Overdrive.com site has terrible navigation, so I use the North Carolina portal for Overdrive which is much better.
You can download the Overdrive app, or better yet, their new app named “Libby.” You can search and request audiobooks through the apps or through the overdrive website, then play them on your phone. Android Auto treats these apps as if they were music players and all will work seamlessly.
Any ebook from that list should work. In fact, any eBook that kindle can load should work as long as the text is selectable (not a PDF with images of text). The trick with this is that we’ll get Amazon’s Alexa to read the kindle books for us. Since you won’t have WiFi in your car, however, an actual Alexa device isn’t the best solution. Instead, we’ll use the Alexa App on your phone and the Reverb for Alexa App. The Alexa app will let you send kindle eBooks to your Alexa device so she can read them to you, and the Reverb app will allow you to host an Alexa on your phone itself.
First open the Reverb app. Then open the Alexa app. You can click on “play” and select eBook of your choice from your kindle library. When you select it, Alexa will ask you to select which device to play it on. Select the “Reverb” option and voila! If you don’t have the ability to select the “Reverb” option, make sure you are running Reverb before the Alexa app.
Your phone will now read the book to you. You can’t increase the speed (sadly) but overall it’s a good compromise. Now this method does use your data, however for about 40 minutes of reading, Reverb used only about 25Mb and Alexa used about 13Mb so total, about 1Mb of data per minute of audiobook. Given you can’t speed up books, that’s a bit of an annoyance, so a 6-hour book will cost you a little over a third of a Gb of data. On a 4GB monthly plan that’s only 9%. If you did nothing but listen to audio books, your 4Gb data plan will get you 67 hours of playtime per month! That’s way more than I’d use it for sure.
Of course, you might want to continue listening when you get either home or to the office. If you have an Amazon Echo, Echo dot, Echo Plus, or any other Amazon device (even a new one I’ve never heard of called “Echo Auto” which could be an interesting option as well). When you get to the office or home, simply use the Alexa app on your phone to select the correct device. Different devices may be greyed out if they aren’t available. For instance, in my car my echo dot isn’t available.
If you have a Kindle Unlimited account, you can get even more free books from there selection of over 1 million.
In all, these solutions save me from hearing garbage-radio shows or political news when I’m driving in my car. If you find any other solutions to this, please drop a line in the comments and let me know!
The way to read this chart is to look first at the little design on the bottom. It is 4 blocks high by 26 columns long.
Each column refers to one card or tablet. This means we will need to use 26 card (or tablets) each with 4 holes and threads through those holes. Each hole on the card should be labeled A, B, C, and D respectively and the color of each hole is listed from the bottom up in the design. i.e.
Image Source: https://buddhajeans.com/encyclopedia/warp-weft-diagram/
