What to do with all these Jawbone devices now the company is defunct?

(TLDR: Jawbone Replacements – Fitbit Inspire HR, Fitbit Charge 3, Garmin Vívoactive 3 Music)

Having gotten a couple Jawbone Up24 devices a few years ago for dirt cheap (<$10 each used)  I thought it was a great deal, until Jawbone shut down their servers recently.  The app no longer works for tracking steps or sleep, you can’t create new accounts or anything anymore.  I think it’s a damn shame that even while the company is dying with no hope of saving it, they haven’t open sources their hardware/software. As a plea to all companies, especially those with millions of devices already in the market, please open your designs to the public if your company is dying!!!  Otherwise all those devices are going to end up in landfills even though they still have the ability to work. I realize that there may be some tech you can’ share such as what’s involved in patent disputes, but at least open the parts of the code that provide basic functionality for hackers to work with!

For the Jawbone UP24 bands I have, I did some googling and found someone who wrote an app that allows the UP bands to vibrate when your phone gets notifications which still works even after Jawbone’s API has been taken offline. This is a great thing to use for things such as calendar notifications or timer on your phone.  Here’s my journey into getting these things to work.

If you don’t currently have a jawbone device, you can get them online second hand pretty easily and for practically nothing nowadays.  YOu can’t buy them from stores anymore though.  I recommend you pick up a UP24 band.

The next step is to fix the band if you need to. I did a hard reset on my band as it wasn’t charging correctly. Here’s the steps

To hard reset your band, please follow these steps:

Press the button on your band 10 times. Try to pace the presses at about about one press every second.

On the 10th press, PRESS + HOLD the button for 15 FULL SECONDS, or until the sun status light appears. Once you see the light, let go of the button. (via https://blog.mornati.net/)

Doing a hard reset will wipe all saved data from the device, but since Jawbone’s servers are down and likely for the count, I don’t think that matters much.

Next download the Jawbone App. As I mentioned before, it won’t track steps or sleep, or allow you to connect to a jawbone account, however you need this to pair your UP24 band to your phone.  This is required after a hard reset. Open the app and click through the screens (don’t try to sign or log in as it won’t work, their servers are turned off) but you’ll eventually come to a point where you need to pair the device as shown in the video below.  This worked for me with no problem at all and without having to log in.

The next part (after pairing the device with your phone) is to download the app to allow you to push notifications called UpNotifications in the play store. You can select which apps you will allow. This app does cost $1.79, but given that you can get the device <$10 (we got one for $3 on ebay), and this app for <$2 I think it’s still worth it. What’s cool is the builder of this app Stefano Brilli documented the process of building this app on his blog.

In the UpNotifications app, simply go to the top and switch on notifications, then go to “select band” and it should be populated in the list with it’s address. CLick that, then select which apps you want to be able to push notifications to the band.

It should be noted that this app might support more than just Jawbones. It detected my FitBit Charge 2 device as well.

Tada! You just saved a functional device from the ending up in a landfill. This is truly recycling in the sense that you’re ReUsing (reduce, reuse, recycle). LIke other forms of recycling, it’s a bit of a downgrade of the band’s once glorious functionality, but at least now you’ve given it a second life.

Another quick note if you encounter problems, the only troubleshooting info I have from the UpNotifications app says to make sure your firmware is updated. SInce you can’t access the jawbone app, I’m not sure how that’s possible. If you figure it out, or have any other hacks for these little guys, feel free to post them in the comments.

I will recommend updating to a different company’s fitness band. There are a ton of options, and I have only tried a few. For instance, I mentioned the Fitbit Charge 2 earlier. This is a great basic step counter and heart rate tracker and when paired with your phone can map your exercises using the phone’s GPS.  I loved the small size and simple interface. It tracks heart rate constantly and does a great job of detecting how well you’ve slept (showing you a chart with deep sleep, REM, and showing how many times you were awake or restless in the night). The heart rate tracker can also estimate cardio fitness score, a measure of how healthy you are overall.

After using my Fitbit Charge 2 for more than a year, I decided that I wanted more features like integrated GPS so I didn’t need to bring my phone with me when I exercised. I tried the Samsung Gear S2. This is a full android device that can make cell phone calls and has Svoice (Samsung’s version of Siri) which I found worked well. It has built-in apps for heart rate, GPS tracking of exercises. (Though I used both the MapMyRun and Endomondo apps for the watch as well). The Heart rate monitoring isn’t constant, rather it can be set to measure when you are still for a programmable period of time (sucha s 10 or 30 minutes). It doesn’t have a native sleep tracker app so I tried a couple apps I downloaded.  Most of the apps available for the phone are actually just watch faces which is disappointing. I love that this watch was waterproof so I could shower and swim with it, and the wireless charging feature.  Eventually I got rid of it though because it had to be recharged every day. I got it used so maybe the previous owner had messed up the battery. Regardless, I moved on.

I settled on the Garmin Vivoactive 3 which I charge about as often as the Fitbit, only once a week. It has integrated GPS so I don’t need to bring my phone to track my exercise. It also has a great heart rate monitor and is one of the few watches with Heart Rate Variability (HRV) monitoring features which can be used to determine how healthy you are. It is also waterproof, and has a full color screen which you can easily see in full daylight.

In all, there isn’t a ton that can be done with the Jawbone’s now that their servers are offline unless someone backwards engineers the communication protocol to set up new bands with an app. This is very unlikely given the current scenario. The best option is to move to another company. Fitbit, Garmin, and samsung’s stock prices are all pretty steady over the last year so I believe they will stick around for the long haul. Samsung owns South Korea so it isn’t going anywhere, and garmin has been in the GPS game for ages.

Making a Simple Sign with Fusion360 and Xcarve

(Video below)

So I just got back into fighting working with my CNC machine.  After a few failed attempts at PCBs (I’ll post what I learned there some other time) I thought I’d work on something on the macro scale.  Below are notes to myself on the workflow.

Designing a sign in Fusion 360, simple enough. CAM is tough though, especially when using mm.

First I had Jess (Queen of fonts) find a cursive font that connected most of the letters together and had her create a SVG file for me of it.  She used photoshop and MakeTheCut (for our Zing vinyl cutter) to generate the SVG.

I used easel to get the settings I would use for feeds and speeds, then converted them to mm. This can likely be fixed by creating my own tools file locally with these values hard-coded as defaults.

Realize that my machines is Left hand rule orthoganal axes.
Z
^   Y
|   /
| /
*——> X with Y pointing into the screen.

Set CAM origin to nearest-leftist-top face of project stock (0,0,0)-ish on my machine

Set up a 2D contour and select the bottom of the design to be cut out. Make sure to select all the inner contours as well. Add a tab or so to the inner parts to prevent them flopping around or going ballistic.

Multiple passes, no more than 1/2 bit thickness each with triangular tabs.

I set clearance heights at 5mm, 10mm is safer but slower. (Click pic to make bigger).

In the first 2D contour settings tab, you must select the tool. The menu seems to have changed since I last saw it. Simply use the search bar at the top. I used 1/8″ as my term and easily found something that would work.

Export the CAM using smoothieboard CAM process. Save the file with a .gcode extension. We’ll be using printrun (does anything else work for smoothieboard?) which only looks for .gcode files.

(needed?) Open the file by hand like a cave man and add “G1 Z5” to the code JUST BEFORE the first G0 or G1 command. This will raise the bit to a safe height from the start. I might be able to ignore this if I follow the correct steps below… but do it until I learn better.  I might also be able to modify the smoothie post processor to add this in.

I used 2-sided scotch tape to secure the part. It works well for light duty stuff.

Using the step blocks, set the gantry roughly equal on each side to square up the machine. This is a tip from a youtube video I cannot find again (sorry to the guy who made it. Thanks man, you’re the real MVP). I got my step blocks for practically nothing online. Bonus, once you’ve squared you floppy gantry with them, you can use them as they were designed to be used, as actual step blocks with clamps for holding your stock down to the table top as well.

Turn motors on and use printrun to move to Set up the X and Y of the machines to where Fusion360’s workpiece offset was (nearest-leftist-top face of stock).

Raise the bit like 30mm and prep for an air run.

Reset axes, then RESET THE SMOOTHIE. Fully disconnect and reconnect, and I don’t mean in printrun, I mean unplug the USB cable and plug it back in. This is the only way to change the stupid machine offsets which will cause problems. If you don’t, before the machine does the G1 Z5 we added, it’ll immediately move to the place the router was when you powered on the smoothie last. Often times this means moving directly through the stock, especially if the Z was touching the stock or lower when you started running the file. IT WILL ALWAYS GO BACK TO MACHINE 0,0,0 BEFORE GOING TO WORKPIECE 0,0,0 AND STARTING YOUR PROGRAM.

Once you’ve rebooted the smoothie, load the file and run an air cut (at Z 30mm) to verify nothing funky happens.

Once this is all verified, move to the actual start position you want (bit touching the top of the stock)

Adjust the Z by hand to verify starting position.

COMPLETELY REBOOT THE SMOOTHIE ONCE MORE. The whole shebang, unplugging and all.

Turn Speed on router to lowest setting. If I had a superPID it’d be able to go the correct speed but as it stands it is almost always spinning too fast.

Turn on the router, turn on the vacuum, connect to the smoothie, reload the .gcode file in printrun, then Run the file.

Keep an eye out especially at first, always be ready to smack the E-stop.

If you smack the E-stop, be ready to jog the machine back to the workpiece offset (or new area of the workpiece ) and completely reboot the smoothie. The latest printrun (1.6.0)/smoothie firmware (April 4th 2018 firmware) I’m using seems to lag dramatically after E-stop has been reset and could be dangerous.

 

DIY Art for Your Nursery – ABC I Heart You

With the impending arrival of Baby A, I have been busy crafting up a storm. There is nothing like the drive to get a nursery ready to serve as a great excuse to do all those craft projects you’ve been letting sit on the side burner.

This was one of my latest craft projects and it was one of the easiest. I’ve seen it pinned so many times and I’m sure you have too, but I wanted my own version nonetheless. I used my KNK Zing to cut out the Alphabet letters, but you can just as easily buy pre-cut letters (or stickers) in two or three colors to stick on yourself. I used three colors/designs total – blue for the majority of the letters, a heart design for the “I” and “U”, and pink for the heart.

Here is how it turned out:

sheekgeek-abc-iheartu-art-pin

I used a canvas frame I purchased at Michael’s on clearance for $7 and three pieces of scrapbook paper on sale for fifty cents each. This puts the cost of my nursery pizzazz at $8.50. I already had glue dots on hand, which I used to adhere the letters to the canvas. It is not a permanent solution, which I liked, because I can see myself reusing this canvas frame for a different purpose in the future (like many years in the future, so I’m not planning on changing it up any time soon).

Have  you made ABC art like this before?

P.S. Yes there are random paper butterflies in this picture. They are part of a future project!

Jessica-of-SheekGeek

Using Fusion 360 for CNC and 3D Printing

Many designers use some kind of computer-aided design or CAD software to make 2D and 3D designs. A common one used by many people is Rhino (especially when used in conjunction with the Grasshopper plugin).  Fusion 360 is a newer, easy to use, free complete CAD/CAM package. If you are going to learn any CAD software for practically any purpose (designing, engineering, fabrication, rendering realistic models, etc) it should be Fusion 360.

Fusion 360 is an Autodesk application that can do many useful things for designers. Whether you want to do something as simple as making cool looking 3D models to stress testing (finite element analysis) and even simulating the simple physics of designs and even milling them out or 3D printing them, Fusion 360 has you covered. It can also render realistic materials and surfaces and make animations of your working mechanical devices. Did I mention that it is free and there are tons of free online video tutorials and classes showing you how to use it with example projects? Oh, and so you aren’t reinventing the wheel (or other simple hardware) you can bring in models directly from McMaster-Carr who carry all sorts of nuts, bolts, gears, chains, etc. which can save you loads of time. This is my brain dump for getting started with Fusion 360 and using it with my CNC machine and my wife’s 3D printer.

Download Fusion 360 for free license. They have yearly licenses for hobbyist and I think even small business, or you can get a 3 year license for education.

Learning to use CAD:

At this point, there are two methodologies to use when creating parts in Fusion 360. If you have CAD experience already, you might be more comfortable drawing 2D parts then extruding them into 3D, etc.  If this is you, then check out this free training class.  The second methodology is sculpting. It begins with simple 3D shapes you can manipulate almost as if it were made of clay.  This is great for 3D smooth shapes. Check out this great free training class for this methodology after taking the first section of this class. These two methodologies don’t replace one another, rather they compliment each other. You will eventually need both for complex designs, but start with whichever one is easiest for you so you can progress quicker. I personally love the “sculpting” mode.

Since on a CNC machine, the Z axis is the one you attach the router to, you will need to change the position of the Z axis in Fusion 360. Then set your preferences such that Z axis is the top axis. Within Fusion 360, click your name at the top right->Preferences. In the main window that pops up, about half way down, there is a “Top Axis” option that is set to Y, change this to Z and then “Apply” Now Z is the top axis like on your CNC machine. This will work for all NEW documents, but if you happen to have an older design or are importing someone else’s design, there’s a couple different ways to change the Z axis.  The simplest method is to select the up-axis when you “setup the job” in Fusion 360. This is done when you are finished with your model design, and want to start creating the toolpaths.

Now, get into making some stuff. While Fusion 360 can do 2D and 3D designs and generate toolpaths for the CNC machine, there are lots of simpler (dumber) 2D workflows out there that are great such as Makercam.com or Easel from Inventables, etc. I’d use Fusion for more complicated 2D and 3D designs. For example, Easel won’t allow you to use a chamfer bit or V bit for engraving last I checked, but Fusion 360 will. This can make some amazing 2D designs.

You will notice that some of the videos tell you to delete certain lines in the generated Gcode from Fusion. This is mostly because it adds a “home” command and many DIY CNC machines don’t have homing switches. This command might tell your machine to go to the maximum extent of your machines to find the switches, but since you have no switches, it’ll end up messing up something.  So many of the tutorials suggest removing the G28 (home) line from the Gcode Fusion 360 generates.  If you have a smoothieboard controller, you should be fine to leave it in as long as you have set up your config files correctly.

How to set your origin to a different are of the design for milling. The best setup is one like the Othermill uses which ensures you never cut into your spoilboard. “Don’t spoil the spoilboard” is a great explanation of this method. I hope to make vids on how to in fusion 360 and real machine.

Can export to Othermill, or Smoothieboard, pocket NC, or other mill. Tons of options in the “Post Processing” menu.

You can simulate the milling process. When you do, the paths have different colors. A post on Autodesk’s forum cleared up what they mean:

  • Yellow: it indicates the rapid move of the toolpath
  • Green: it indicates the lead-in/leadout of the toopath (Lead-in is a cut used to make a smooth transition into the actual cut you want)
  • Red: it indicates the Ramping move of the toolpath
  • Blue: Most part of the toolpath are blue which indicates the cutting.
  • Orange: Is no-engagement stay down linking motion for Adaptive Cleating. Or motion updated when using the Feed Optimization feature.

Here’s my video of an example project I made. It is full of tips on stumbling blocks I came across.

Using LaTeX, Mendeley, and Bibtex in Windows

Most publications such as a Thesis, Dissertation, conference paper, Journal article, etc. have specific required formatting. We’ve all hit the point where we simply can’t get our word processor to format things the way we want, and we can’t figure out why. The way these apps work is to code in manipulations to raw text. It is kind of like HTML code in Micro$oft Word and LibreOffice formats. In fact if you have a .docx or .odt file, you an open them in an unzipping tool such as 7zip and see all the nitty gritty, including saved images, etc.

LaTeX is basically programming what a document should look like directly. You have to write code to tell the document where to create a subsection, bulleted list, insert images, even to italicize or bold something, but it (usually) gives you much more direct control over formatting.  All through college, I wrote only a few documents in LaTeX because honestly, it was a pain. It is not WYSIWYG editing at all. After you make changes to the code of your document, you have to compile it into a PDF document before you can see what the end result will look like. I avoided using it because I hadn’t found an editor I liked.  Now I have found a workable setup and I’ve solved a few problems for myself that I think might be helpful for others (as well as my future self).

Firstly, you must install an editor, as well as the compiler tools. There are many editors out there and two compilers.

Editor:

I tested several editors (namely Texmaker, TexWorks) but I settled on using TeXstudio.  Texmaker looks nice, but I had trouble getting it to display a recompiled version of my PDF. Texworks has a much more “Linuxy” feel, as it uses two separate windows to display the code and the resulting PDF.  Again, the winner for me was TeXstudio.

Compiler:

There are two LaTeX compiler setups. TexLive and Miktex. I had used Miktex in the past so I tested out TexLive with this installation.

Setup:

Open TeXstudio, then select “Options–>Configure TeXstudio”  then select the “commands” tab.  Here, we must tell TeXstudio where all the compiler programs live. The main thins to fill out are “LaTeX”, “PdfLaTeX”, “External PDF Viewer”, “BibTex”, and “Biber”.  Don’t worry about the other text in the file paths in my screenshot here, That’s automatically entered by TeXstudio when you select the path. Simply click on the file icon on the right hand side for each of these entries and drive to the compiler installation. Here you see that my texlive installation is directly on my C drive. Miktex can be installed the same way. Then wind your way through the fines until you find the “binaries” (which are the actual executable programs) in the “bin” folder.

texstudio

 

Templates:

Now you can start editing and compiling your paper. You can start from scratch, or if the conference or journal you are submitting your paper to has a template you can download, start there.  In my case, IEEE has templates available for download here. Now I recommend you go through a few tutorials  and play with some files like these before using a full-on journal template just to get your bearings with LaTeX. There are commented things in the template that you can add in (uncomment) and multiple ways of doing things you might want to do, so research is king.  Once you’ve written some of the paper and formatting code, compile it by clicking the “compile and View” button in TeXstudio.compile and display  You might need to compile the bibliography separately. For finer grain compiling options, click the “Tools”menu.

References:

You already know I love Mendeley, but you can actually get Mendeley to export a .bib file.  A .bib file is a list of all your references in a format called BibTex, which you can open in any text editor, even in TeXstudio.  The .bib file Mendeley exports is only as good as the data you entered in Mendeley, so make sure it is correct first! You can enter these reference entries directly into your .tex file (the code  you are writing describing your paper) or keep the references in the .bib file and import that file into your paper.   What is great is that you cite something using /cite{nameOfBibtexEntry} and LaTeX and BibTex do all the rest for you. It will enter the citation in the correct format, then it’ll generate your references section of your paper.  The format,  like MLA, APA, etc, is different for each conference, journal, and even discipline in which you are submitting. You can tell your document which format to use using some simple commands, however the template you download likely already sets you up for the correct format.  To get the name you must use in your /cite{} command, open the .bib file and find the entry you want to cite. The first name next to the @article{ tag is the name to use. for example:

In my bibtex file I have the following entry:

@inproceedings{Rao2003,
address = {New York, New York, USA},
author = {Rao, Ananth and Papadimitriou, Christos and Shenker, Scott and Stoica, Ion},
booktitle = {Proceedings of the 9th annual international conference on Mobile computing and networking – MobiCom ’03},
doi = {10.1145/938985.938996},
isbn = {1581137532},
keywords = {Vehicle,Wireless,ad-hoc,coordinate-based,detection,geographoc,routing,sensornets},
mendeley-tags = {Vehicle,Wireless,detection},
month = {sep},
pages = {96},
publisher = {ACM Press},
title = {{Geographic routing without location information}},
url = {http://dl.acm.org/citation.cfm?id=938985.938996},
year = {2003}
}

In my LaTex file, I might have the following line:

Ad hoc wireless sensor networks can be used to track vehicle locations as shown in /cite{Rao2003}.

Once I “compile and view” this document, it will generate a PDF with references automatically generated and in all it’s two-column perfectly formatted glory…. if all goes right.