I just bought a GlowForge laser cutter and here’s why

UPDATE 2017: I canceled my order for the Glowforge as life happens and I couldn’t afford to let them earn interest on my money anymore. I just had to get my money back for life reasons. I do still recommend you get one if you can. I’ve seen them in use in person at Charlotte Latin FabLab and it is really awesome!

Original article below:

So for the last 7 years or so, Jess and I have considered purchasing a laser cutter.  My personal goal is to have my own FabLab. I’m partially there with Jess’s KNK Zing vinyl cutter and my Shapeoko/Xcarve CNC machine.  The two main missing components are a 3D printer and a laser cutter.  Being a FabAcademy alum and running a FabLab at work, I am intimately aware that lasers are the most used (and arguably useful) machine. They are definitely the most fun to play with.  They are also the easiest to make money with (It’s always easiest for me to justify big purchases with the expression “hobbies that pay”). For the past several decades, laser cutters or laser engravers have been used in trophy shops and all sorts of companies. You can use a laser cutter to make products to sell on Etsy (as many people do), make the most amazing personalized birthday and holiday gifts, prototypes of ideas you have, or just make cool stuff for yourself.

I recently saw a new laser cutter on the market and I held back for a while before making the decision to buy it. That may have been a mistake.  The GlowForge is shaping up to be a great machine. I’ve followed it since September, when they were offering 50% discounts on all models.  At the time of this article, they have raised the price to 40% off retail price. And, if you use this referral code, both you and I will get $100 off our orders! (In full discretion, I have had no contact with Glowforge, nor have I actually use the machine myself yet. I’m just really stoked with this machine and its potential. I do have a PhD in Computer/Electrical engineering with Computer Science background and I run an official node of the FabLab network that was started at MIT, so hopefully I’m not off base here… )

There are lots of cheap ( <$15k ) 40-watt laser cutters on the market such as some cheap Chinese ones from Alibaba, or Full Spectrum.  So why go in on a Glowforge?  Well quite simply, it is the best designed laser cutter for FabLab/Makerspace/Hackerspace use. Unlike others in the price range, you don’t need a 5 gallon bucket of distilled water and a fish pump to cool the laser tube (yes that’s a real thing some other models at these prices require and it is ridiculous). It breaks the paradigm of how users interact with a laser cutter.  It is following some of the latest research on user interface and user experience in the field of computer science.  Honestly, those are project I wish I could implement myself but didn’t have the time. It brings together lots of great solutions from these projects and crams it all into a single package.

Paradigm shift #1:   Unlike traditional laser cutters, where you print to the machine like a printer on a network or connected to your computer, Glowforge can be printed from practically any location in the world. This is because the software is cloud-based.  I used to be wary of this kinds of thing, but since Glowforge also promises to make a version of the software open source, you can implement it yourself if you want.

Paradigm shift #2: Glowforge allows you to easily position your designs on your material using a live camera view of the material.  This is a godsend for those who are familiar with the waste of laser cutters.  To be able to make sure a design will fit on a scrap piece of material, you have to do some measurements, hold your tongue just write when pushing the cut button, and hope you remembered to reset the origin (0,0 point) on the laser before cutting.  Sometimes this can be very hard depending on what was originally cut out of the scrap you are using, you might have a weird shaped area and it can be very hard to find out if you can use it to cut a new part.  There are some ideas being researched to handle this kind of situation and other tools you can purchase that are very expensive, but Glowforge has it built in. Being able to literally move my design on top of a video camera image of the material allows me to use as much material as possible without the risk of mis-cutting and having to toss that piece of material and grab a new one.

Another great feature is to simply draw on the material you want with a pen. The cameras will read your design, vectorize it, then the laser will frickin’ cut it exactly as you’ve drawn it.   This is worthy of some type of award because it will save a lot of time for people. I constantly have students who would benefit from simply being able to draw their designs by hand and quickly cut a part out. Again, this feature somewhat comes from newer research into user interface design of laser cutters I’ve been keeping my eye on for some time now.

Paradigm shift 3: Glowforge uses dual cameras inside the cabinet to not only allow you to place your design on the material, but it can conform and auto focus even on non-level materials.  The example on their web video mentions etching a design on a macbook, but this is sooo much more powerful and useful than just that.  Many materials you want to laser, such as a 1/8″ piece of plywood, have a warp to them. If you focus your laser on the low part of the warp, then keep that measurement to cut the whole part, you can end up with edges that aren’t exactly as you had designed them, or edges that are weak due to the wood not ablating and instead burning. This is bad for a couple of reasons. One it can start small fires, but more commonly your edge is brittle and ashy. This changes the workable dimensions of your parts and sometimes makes them unusable.

Also, the cameras can detect materials you put in the machine.  There are barcodes on the materials you buy from Glowforge, but you can make them yourself, which tell the machine what settings to use for engraving or cutting the material. Settings are different for plastics versus wood, etc.  Even different densities of wood matter, so this is a great solution to the problem of figuring out what power and speed settings to set the laser to use.

And finally on this point, it seems there’s also some image recognition. Put your laptop in there and you it’ll detect it’s a macbook and know what settings to use to best etch it. It can even bring up possible designed others have submitted online for you to use if you want.

Paradigm shift 4: The firmware as well as a simplified version of the cloud software will be made open source. This is great because I can hack on it (as I would have done anyway, but at least now I have a much better starting point) . I’m certain a community of hackers/makers will be adding features, which is exciting since this machine is already starting with an impressive set of features.

Paradigm shift 4:  On the Pro version of the machine, you can open the front and back to be able to cut material that is 20″wide, but infinitely long.  This comes from two places, the vinyl cutting machines that are in the market (which can cut a certain width, but practically an infinite length of material from a spool), the Shaper and the awesome Shopbot Handibot (Shoutout to our friends and fellow Carolinian’s; thanks again for the help this past summer in Pittsburgh Salley!), which can do large designs piece-wise. The cameras on the Glowforge can help align the previously lasered portion with your design and make adjustments as needed.   This is incredibly helpful for making sure the  finished product comes out correctly.

Glowforge will also host a libray of other peoples’ designs you can choose from if you aren’t the artistic type.   This is similar to Makerbot’s Thingiverse or Ultimaker’s YouMagine for 3D parts and Inventables’s project section for CNC projects and file, which can be imported into Easel (Inventables’s cloud-based CNC CAD/CAM software for their line of Shapeoko, Carvey, or X-carve machines).

Words of Negativity: For the specs of the machine, the 20″ wide cutting area is slightly awkward and a 24″ width seems more practical. Also, since the Glowforge isn’t out yet, I have to wait. I have to wait to see if it lives up to these expectations, and also wait to play with it myself.

All that being said, the Glowforge sale at this point is a presale. I won’t receive my machine until summer 2016 or later, but you have until the time it ships to cancel your order and get a full refund.  I expect any bugs in the system will be worked out before I get mine and if not, then I’ll have a good excuse to play with it in more depth.

Adam-Atom

Disclaimer: The only affiliate link in this post is for the Glowforge. All other links supplied in this post are to simplify your internet browsing adventure.

My Shapeoko Version 1 to Version 2 Conversion Adventures

whole machine Forgive this messy rant….

After obsessing over CNC machines for about 10 years, and having some misadventures from time to time designing my own hardware and software, I jumped at the chance to order the original Shapeoko CNC mill mechanical kit as soon as it came out. It took me a year to find time to put it all together. After it was assembled, I connected up my old HobbyCNCPro Motor driver board to it. This driver board is for Unipolar motors, so I searched for some that would work.  I found these NEMA 17s from pololu <<LINK>>

 

On a previous attempt at making a CNC machine, I used Mach 3, but this time I went with LinuxCNC.  The main reason I wanted the machine was to mill PCBs. The workflow was EaglecAD–>pcb-Gcode–>autoleveller–>linuxCNC.<<LINK>>  I made a few really horrible PCBs with the machine before realizing it simply wasn’t the tool for the job. The gantry had way too much play.  The eShapeoko community was constantly updating and improving on the designs, so I waited it out until the V2 came out before the obsession hit me again when I saw how they doubled the gantry slides to improve strength.

 

After a year of V2 being on the market, I searched forums for a conversion pack but none was to be found. So I spent a while trying to define the differences between the machines. In the end, I spent probably just as much as buying a whole new mechanical kit, but here’s my process.

First, instead of buying all new motor mount plates, I only bought 2.  I then modified a couple of my plates from my original machine.  IN the image below, you can see the original plate on the right, the new plate on the left, and the modified one in the middle. I basically just had someone with a drill press line up the new plate with the old and drill out a two holes at the top that could attach the 70mm machine screws through to make the carriage assembly (pictured further down.)

plates1

The V1 Y rails became my new gantry, leaving me with something like 375mm in that dimension. After I mounted the carriage assembly, I saw that the Z axis had no holes to mount to.  To remedy this, I simply used the V1 Z plate as an interface between the new Z axis and the carriage.  In the image below, you can see the bolts I had to extend with short nylon spacers so they could mount the old Z plate and line up with the original eccentric nut circled in green while the four 70mm long spacer screws are circled in blue. (I had to buy 4 70mm M5 bolts on amazon as inventabes doesn’t sell them for some reason).

plates2

Zplate

Below you can see the spacers and everything inside the carriage assembly. This is a “bottom-up” view after the Z axis has been mounted.

Carriage1

I was able to use the belt and the belt standoffs from my V1 on the gantry with no problem, but the lower profile of the new motor mount plates that became my new Y axis required the belt to be clipped to the slide itself.  Instead of buying them, I just laid my V1 standoffs for the belt flat and mounted them that way. This reduced cutting area, but the first thing I will cut will be smaller belt clips.

I ordered a 1000mm piece of Makerslide and cut it directly in half, leaving me with about 500mm rails.  I mounted these up with new end mount plates and some 80 X 20 aluminum.  I was disappointed to see that I couldn’t use readily available half-inch MDF as spoilboard on top of the extrusion, so I just mounted the entire machine on a 500mm X 500mm piece of half-inch MDF.  This gives me a bit more Z depth.

I was not very excited when I saw that my cutting area is less now than it was with the V1. I’m contemplating ordering more makerslide if I need to in the future.

Another change I made was to get a unipolar stepper with the shaft sticking out of the back for my z axis, and used a 3d printer to print a thumbwheel to attach to it. Now I don’t have to struggle to adjust the Z axis by hand anymore. I hadn’t used this company before, but <<LINK HERE>  stepper world?  was cheap, shipped fast and packaged everything great. The only problem I found with the datasheet they included is that they had labeled the brown wire “BLW”  for some reason.

 

If I can find another NEMA23 aound the house, I will replace my Y axis motors with NEMA23s for added power.

 

I’m also hacking on the electronics. I added the 4th axis motor driver to the HobbyCNC Pro board and would like to use it to drive a 3d printer extruder. Since the HobbyCNC Pro board interfaces with a parallel port, it isn’t very practical for my laptop, so I decided to slap an arduino on there running GRBL to simplify the entire process. After seeing a demonstration of chillipeppr for GRBL, I’m thinking of using that.  I kind of dig the browser-based tools available for controlling the machine for their simplicity.I don’t wanna use my PhD to make PCBs I just want to click a button and be done with it. It shouldn’t be such a pill to make things on the CNC. For using GRBL with 4 axes, I’m looking at using the spindle speed control as my extruder, or using a slave ATmega328, or even just getting the timing set for strapping my 3doodler onto the thing.  The interfacing of the driver and the arduino should be pretty straightforward, I just need to wire X direction on one to X direction on the other, etc. for the most part.

My tool tip wobbles as the Z goes up and down, which sounds to me like I have a bent leadscrew somehow. I’ not sure about this and will have to hack on it later.

Anyway, that’s my progress so far. Any more info and I’ll post it when I get the chance.

 

Adam-Atom

Doctoral Dissertation or Master’s Thesis Template

I’ve already mentioned one good tool for research papers, so here’s another that might be helpful.

Most schools have a set format for their dissertations and theses. My school was the same.  They provide a manual showing what they expect your formatting to be.  Many people have trouble with this. You must make a meeting with a specific faculty member in the graduate school and she will take a ruler and measure your margins, and go over in extreme detail the spacing, numbering, etc. of your document. Many many people get rejected and I’ve even talked to people who pay lots of money for other people to format the documents for them.  They don’t provide an exact template for any specific software, but using the google machine can help you find Microsoft Word or LaTeX tempaltes.  Personally, I like LibreOffice it is completely cross-platform (works on windows, mac, and linux systems)  completely free, open source, has lots of great plugins and it lives in the world between Microsoft Windows and LaTeX. It is GUI-based (WYSIWYG, visual) like Microsoft Word, but also much more powerful like LaTeX.   I dislike LaTeX because it is incredibly buggy and you have to program your text documents.  I program other stuff all day long, I am sick of that!

Anyway, I made my own template and write up a very detailed explanation on how to use it and my best tips and tricks for modifying the basic template if you want.  I also have a chart of suggested plugins to make your papers look amazingly good and professional. Again, I used LibreOffice, so it can be used in OpenOffice as well. This is specific to my school, so be sure you double check your school’s documents to see exactly what kind of margins and page numbering they require.  (Note it is in Open document Format and though I haven’t tested it, it *might* work in other programs like Microsoft Word).

Download my template here!

Adam-Atom

Easily get Public Link for Dropbox Files in Linux

I got tired of going to the dropbox website to find the public link for files I put in the Public folder.  On Windows you can simply right click–>get Public link, but I’m running LinuxMint with Dropbox version 2.0.22 which doesn’t support this (among many other things like Pausing a sync…)

Anyway I wrote a script that you can just drag your files onto and it’ll pop up a box showing you the public link.  In Linux, a script alone can’t do this, but a script and a .desktop file can call a script to do it.  Here’s what I got:

Save the following in a text file called “getPublicLink.sh” inside your Dropbox/Public folder.  Make sure it has permission to run (right-click the file–> properties –>permission and check the box to allow it to run)

#!/bin/bash
publicLink=$(dropbox puburl $1)
zenity --info --text $publicLink

Now create a new text file named “Get Public Dropbox Link”.  Paste the following there, be sure to change your username, mine says “adam” yours does not and this will make it not work. Save it in the Dropbox/Public folder and give it permission to execute as well. Here’s the file:

[Desktop Entry]
Encoding=UTF-8
Version=1.0
Type=Application
Terminal=false
Exec=/home/adam/Dropbox/Public/getPublicLink.sh
Name=My Application
Icon=/usr/share/icons/hicolor/48x48/status/aptdaemon-update-cache.png
#Required for double-click running and Drag-andDrop files into this icon.
#reference: http://linuxcritic.wordpress.com/2010/04/07/anatomy-of-a-desktop-file/
Name[en_US]=Get Public Dropbox Link

 

Now you can  simply drag files from your public folder on top of the “Get Public Dropbox Link” file and a window will pop up showing you the public link. from here, simply copy and paste that link to where ever you need.

Information_903

 

Adam-Atom